Restaurante Jokin
Perched above Bermeo's inner harbour on Calle Arranegi, Jokin has been feeding fishermen, locals and knowing travellers for decades with a menu built almost entirely on whatever came off the boats that morning. The dining room's picture windows frame the coloured hulls of the fleet below — a view that makes the already-excellent food taste even better.
What to Order
The txipirones en su tinta (baby squid in their own ink served over white rice) are a Bermeo benchmark — dark, deeply savoury and nothing like the timid versions served in tourist restaurants elsewhere.
Grilled kokotxas (hake cheeks) in pil-pil sauce and a plate of fresh anchovies dressed with Idiazabal vinegar are equally non-negotiable starters before a main of whole grilled besugo (sea bream) or rodaballo (turbot).
The Pintxo Bar Downstairs
The ground-floor bar operates as a classic Basque pintxo counter from around 12:30 pm, with a changing slate board of hot pintxos that rotates every 30 minutes. Arrive early for the bacalao (salt cod) croquetas and the anchovy-and-pepper skewers.
A glass of chilled txakoli — the local slightly sparkling white wine poured from a height to aerate it — is the only correct pairing and costs around €2.50 a glass.
Booking & Budget
The upstairs restaurant fills quickly on Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday lunch; book at least two days ahead by phone or via their website. The pintxo bar is walk-in only.
A full sit-down lunch with wine runs €35–50 per person; the pintxo bar lets you eat exceptionally well for under €15 if you time your visit to the hot-pintxo rushes.
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