San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
A hermitage dedicated to John the Baptist clings to a wind-scoured islet off the Biscay coast, connected to the mainland by a sinuous stone causeway and 241 steps carved into the rock. Visitors who make the climb are rewarded with Atlantic views in every direction and the tradition of ringing the church bell three times to ward off evil — and to have a wish granted.
The Walk Out and the Climb
The path descends from the clifftop car park at Gaztelugatxe hamlet, crosses a double-arched medieval bridge, and then winds along the dragon-spine causeway before zigzagging up the islet's rocky spine to the 10th-century hermitage at the summit. The whole approach takes about 30–40 minutes at a relaxed pace.
The steps are uneven and there is no handrail on sections, so take your time. The reward at the top is a 360-degree panorama of the Cantabrian Sea, the Basque cliffs and, on clear days, the distant silhouette of the Cantabrian mountains.
Practical Realities
Since the site appeared in Game of Thrones as Dragonstone, visitor numbers have surged dramatically. The regional government now requires a free reservation (biscayabusfree.com) for weekend and public holiday visits between June and October — without one, you will be turned away at the access point.
Weekday mornings in May, early June or October offer the closest thing to a crowd-free experience. Arrive before 09:30 to have the causeway almost to yourself and the light at its most dramatic, raking across the rock face from the east.
The Hermitage and the Bell
The whitewashed hermitage is tiny — it seats perhaps 30 people — and is occasionally open for services. Even when closed, the exterior and the small terrace around it offer the finest views. Ring the bell in the small tower three times: it is a tradition that predates tourism by several centuries and feels genuinely meaningful in this elemental place.
The nearest village is Bermeo, a working fishing port 4 kilometres away with excellent seafood restaurants along its harbour. Combining Gaztelugatxe with lunch in Bermeo makes for a perfect half-day excursion from Bilbao (45 minutes by car) or Gernika.
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