Panadería y Confitería El Molino
El Molino is the kind of old-school Argentine bakery that urban food writers keep threatening to 'discover' but thankfully hasn't changed a thing in response. The medialunas here — buttery, glossy, just-warm — are worth crossing the Pampas for, and the café con leche arrives in a proper glass, not a paper cup.
What to Order
Start with a half-dozen medialunas de manteca, the sweeter, butterier cousin of the croissant that Argentines consume with religious devotion at breakfast. El Molino's version has a lacquered sheen and a layered interior that shatters satisfyingly at the first bite.
For something more substantial, ask for a factura surtida — a mixed tray of pastries that might include cañoncitos filled with dulce de leche, vigilantes glazed with quince paste, and crispy palmeras. Pair everything with a cortado and settle in for at least an hour.
The Space and the Ritual
The interior retains its original tiled floor, dark wood display cases and a long marble counter that has absorbed decades of flour dust and conversation. It is busy from 07:00 and the queue moves fast, but regulars linger at the small tables by the window watching the street come alive.
El Molino also sells freshly baked bread loaves and homemade alfajores to take away — the chocolate-dipped ones filled with thick dulce de leche make excellent gifts and survive a bus journey back to Buenos Aires perfectly well.
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