Les Boves — Arras Underground Quarries
Directly under the Grand'Place lies a labyrinth of chalk tunnels called the Boves, quarried in the 10th century and later used as cellars, wartime shelters and even a British military headquarters during WWI. Descending into them is one of the most genuinely surprising things you can do in northern France.
Ten centuries of underground history
The Boves stretch for roughly 22 km beneath the city, and the accessible section beneath the Hôtel de Ville takes visitors through vaulted chalk galleries where medieval merchants stored wine, Napoleonic soldiers sheltered and, most movingly, British and New Zealand troops carved their names and regimental badges into the walls before the Battle of Arras in 1917.
The temperature holds at a constant 11 °C year-round, so bring a light layer even in August. Guided tours (in French and English) last about 45 minutes and are led by knowledgeable local historians who bring the layers of occupation vividly to life.
What to look for on the tour
Look closely at the chalk walls for the scratched graffiti left by Allied soldiers — a Tommy's name, a regimental crest, a rough sketch of a ship. These intimate marks feel far more affecting than any formal memorial.
At one point the guide dims the lights entirely so you experience the absolute darkness the soldiers endured. It is a theatrical but genuinely powerful moment that children and adults alike remember long after the visit.
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