Al-Pasha Turkish Bath (Hammam Al-Pasha)
Hidden in a vaulted 16th-century building just below the Roman Theatre in downtown Amman, Al-Pasha is the city's most atmospheric hammam and one of the oldest continually operating bathhouses in Jordan. It is the antidote to a long day of sightseeing.
The Experience
The standard package takes about 90 minutes and moves you through a progression of steam rooms at increasing temperatures before a vigorous kese scrub (exfoliation with a coarse mitt) removes what feels like several layers of dust and dead skin. A full-body soap massage with a kefir-and-olive-oil mixture follows.
The building itself is as much the attraction as the treatment — the main steam room sits under a domed ceiling pierced with star-shaped glass skylights that cast shifting patterns of light through the steam. It has barely changed since Ottoman times.
Practicalities
Al-Pasha is open to both men and women, with separate sections and segregated hours for women (call ahead to confirm current schedules). The staff speak enough English to guide you through the process, and a towel, wooden clogs and a waistcloth are provided.
Bring a change of clothes and nothing valuable — lockers are provided but the experience is wet throughout. Tipping the scrub attendant JD 2–3 is customary and appreciated.
Al-Pasha Turkish Bath (Hammam Al-Pasha) on video
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