Pasticceria Andrea Pansa, Amalfi
On Amalfi's main Piazza del Duomo, Pasticceria Andrea Pansa has been crafting sfogliatelle, delizie al limone and candied citrus since 1830, making it one of the oldest continuously operating pastry shops in Campania. The lemon cream here is made from Sfusato Amalfitano lemons grown on the terraced groves directly above the town.
What to Order
The delizia al limone — a dome of sponge soaked in limoncello syrup and blanketed in lemon-cream frosting — is the signature of the entire coast, and Pansa's version is widely considered the benchmark. Pair it with a granita di limone on a hot afternoon for a combination that is almost aggressively refreshing.
Don't overlook the scorzette candite: strips of Sfusato lemon peel candied in sugar syrup and half-dipped in dark chocolate. They make an elegant, lightweight souvenir that won't melt in a day bag and will outperform any airport gift shop limoncello.
The Setting and the History
The marble-topped bar and original wooden cabinets have barely changed since the 19th century, and sitting at an outdoor table with a coffee while the cathedral's striped façade looms across the square is one of the Amalfi Coast's great simple pleasures.
Pansa supplies many of the coast's restaurants with their pastries, so what you're eating at a hotel breakfast in Positano may well have started its life in this kitchen. Visiting the source feels appropriately pilgrimage-like.
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