The road that Ferdinand II finished in 1854 still clings to the cliff face like a ledge someone dared into existence, and driving it for the first time — or riding the SITA bus while another bus squeezes past going the other way — is the quickest introduction to what the Amalfi Coast actually is: vertiginous, a little absurd, and completely serious about its own beauty. Lemon groves terrace the slopes above Minori. Fishing boats dry at Atrani. The sea is a particular shade of blue that seems lit from underneath.
The coast runs roughly from Positano in the west to Vietri sul Mare in the east, taking in a string of towns that each have their own character — Ravello up on its ridge, Praiano quiet where Positano is not, Furore with its sea-cut gorge and its tiny beach at the bottom.
People who come back tend to base themselves somewhere small — Praiano or Atrani rather than Positano — and take the ferry rather than the bus when the summer traffic locks up the road. Ravello on a weekday morning, before the tour groups arrive at Villa Rufolo, is a different place entirely from Ravello at noon.
Amalfi's origins are Roman, though the town as a force came later. After Germanic and Lombard pressure pushed coastal inhabitants into the Lattari mountains, the settlement regrouped and by 839 had broken free from the Duchy of Naples entirely, becoming an independent maritime republic controlling territory from Positano to Cetara and the islands of Capri and Li Galli. At its height, Amalfi traded across the Mediterranean with an ambition that left bronze doors in Constantinople — commissioned by the merchant Pantaleone de Comite — and spread the use of the compass through the sea lanes of the known world.
That republic ended when Pisa sacked the city in 1137. Plague in 1643 took a third of the population. Then in June 1807 Giuseppe Bonaparte rode through and ordered a proper coastal road; it took Ferdinand II until 1854 to finish it. Henrik Ibsen walked those streets in 1879, and the encounter helped him complete A Doll's House. The coast became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
Summers are hot and dry, with the clifftop towns catching whatever breeze comes off the Tyrrhenian. Spring and autumn are mild and clear — the better seasons for walking the paths between towns. Winters are quiet and occasionally wet, but the light on the water stays extraordinary.
Best way to visit is by the sea...got on a boat with 8 others and we were lucky they were great fun and good company. The skipper and guide were also excellent. Amalfi is a lovely place to eat and shop around. We went to Positano which is beautiful, but not worth doing anything there other than mozy around..great trip and highly recommended.
A stunning coastline, beautiful towns and villages. Best seen at leisure or from the sea. It's popularity can spoil the enjoyment so avoid the busiest times, or months. Better still, stay awhile!
Although the centre, where shops and resturants are, is swarmed by people, the small beach infront is quiet and has a fantastic view at sunset and after. The top of the hills (if you dare to climb through stairways or hire a scooter and ride your way through) is fascinating.
An absolutely breathtaking destination with dramatic cliffs, colorful villages, and stunning views of the sea. Every turn along the coast feels like a postcard. Whether you’re driving, walking, or just stopping at viewpoints, the scenery is unforgettable. It was a bit busy, but the beauty of the place makes it completely worth it.
The nature and the towns are absolutely stunning! The roads are very nice as well. They can be tricky to navigate via car but other than than they are very well maintained. The reason i'm giving 4 stars is the crowd. Amalfi and Positano were absolutely packed to the brim and the crowds combined with hot weather just makes it not so pleasant to visit. Ofcourse, you also get fleeced everywhere, the most probably with parking rates but everything is packed regardless. I definetly recommend visiting, just not in June, July or August.
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