Fraschetta da Checco al Lago
A genuine fraschetta — the rustic tavern tradition of the Castelli Romani where a sprig of greenery above the door signals fresh local wine on tap — Checco al Lago has been feeding Romans escaping the city since the 1970s. Expect paper tablecloths, terracotta jugs of cold Colli Albani white, and a menu that changes with whatever the kitchen decided to cook that morning.
What to Order
Start with the antipasto misto: bruschetta rubbed with local olive oil, sliced porchetta from Ariccia (the next town over and the undisputed porchetta capital of Italy), olives, and sharp pecorino from nearby Alatri. It arrives in generous waves and is already a meal in itself.
For a primo, the fettuccine al ragù di cinghiale — hand-rolled pasta with wild boar ragù — is the dish locals drive from Rome specifically to eat. The pasta is made in-house each morning and the boar is sourced from hunters in the Castelli Romani hills. Finish with a slice of crostata di visciole, a tart filled with sour wild cherries that is the signature dessert of this entire region.
The Atmosphere
The dining room spills onto a shaded terrace with a partial view of the lake through the pine trees — grab a terrace table if you arrive before 1 pm on a Sunday, otherwise you will be competing with half of Rome. Weekday lunches are calmer and the staff have time to chat about the wine.
The house Colli Albani DOC white costs around €6 for a half-litre terracotta jug and is the correct pairing for everything on the menu. It's light, slightly mineral and tastes exactly like a volcanic hillside smells after rain.
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