Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
Stand at the centre of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and you are standing, without much exaggeration, at the centre of two thousand years of Rieti. The travertine underfoot marks the highest point of the old city, and the streets that leave in four directions — Via Cintia, Via Garibaldi, Via Roma, Via Pennina — follow the same lines the Roman surveyors laid down as the *decumano* and *cardo* of ancient Reate.
The square opens around the Fontana dei Delfini, a baroque fountain that was removed in 1930 to make room for cars, spent nearly sixty years in exile at Piazza XXIII Settembre, and came back in July 1988 after a popular petition. Palazzo Comunale anchors the south side, its neoclassical portico sheltering the tourist office and, on market mornings, the edges of the crowd.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who know the piazza well tend to arrive mid-morning on a Friday or Saturday, when the Civic Museum upstairs in Palazzo Comunale opens its afternoon session and the portico is still quiet. The spot where a petrol station stood in the 1960s is now a newsstand — worth noting as a landmark when you're trying to orient yourself on Via Garibaldi.
The story behind Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
Long before its current name, the square was called *platea statuae* — the statue square — after a figure traditionally identified with the goddess Rea, which had vanished by the 17th century. It sits on the site of the Roman forum of Reate, where temples to Rea and Pater Reatinus once stood.
In 1763, engineer Amati drew up a plan to enlarge the space; it was carried out in 1774, requiring the demolition and relocation of the Church of San Giovanni. Palazzo Comunale, with 13th-century origins, received its neoclassical façade and portico from architect Filippo Brioni in the 18th century, then was restored by Cesare Bazzani after an 1898 earthquake, who opened additional arches in the portico. During the Second World War, a tunnel roughly 150 metres long and ten metres below the surface was dug beneath the square, connecting Palazzo Comunale to Palazzo della Prefettura as an air raid shelter.
Good to know
The square is a seven-minute walk from Rieti's train station. No entry fee for the piazza itself; the Civic Museum inside Palazzo Comunale charges admission and closes Monday. The tourist office, under the portico, keeps generous weekend hours.
Rieti sits in a mountain-rimmed basin, which keeps summers warm but rarely punishing and winters cold enough for occasional frost. Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons for lingering in the square; August middays can be hot, and the portico of Palazzo Comunale offers the most reliable shade.
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What travellers say about Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, often called simply Piazza Vittorio by Romans, is the largest square in Rome and one of the most picturesque spots in the Esquiline district. It stands out from the elegant Baroque squares of the city center and has its own unique character. In the center of the square is a spacious park (Giardini Nicola Calipari). This pleasant green space with playgrounds and shady alleys offers a relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. In the northern corner of the garden, you'll see impressive red brick ruins—the Trofei di Mario. These are the remains of a monumental ancient fountain (nymphaeum) from the 2nd century AD, which was once supplied with water by the Aqua Claudia aqueduct. One of Rome's most enigmatic landmarks is Porta Alchemica. The "Alchemical Door" is the only surviving entrance to the former Villa Palombara (17th century). According to legend, a mysterious pilgrim left the villa's owner a recipe for turning metal into gold, encoded on the doorframes. The door is guarded by two statues of the ancient Egyptian god Bes. The square is overlooked by the façade of an ancient church (Chiesa di Sant'Eusebio all'Esquilino), famous for its unusual custom: a ritual blessing of pets is held there every January 17th. Tip: The square is very spacious and vibrant. It's a great place to see a "different" Rome—not a tourist attraction, but a vibrant, multicultural metropolis. If you're interested in esotericism and mysteries, be sure to find the "Magic Door" in the park. And if you're hungry, the area around the square is home to some of the city's best Chinese and Indian restaurants, as well as the legendary Regoli pastry shop (just nearby on Via di Statuto).
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the largest public squares in Rome, a broad and impressive open space framed by elegant 19th-century buildings. Right in the centre is a lovely green park with shady paths and grassy areas — a great place to relax, sit down and enjoy the sun in good weather.  Inside the park you’ll also find a fascinating historical monument called the Porta Magica (also known as the Alchemical Door or Magic Gate), an enigmatic 17th-century structure with symbolic inscriptions. It’s unique in Rome and definitely worth a look if you’re nearby.  The square is easy to reach by public transport just take Metro Line A to the Vittorio Emanuele station right under the piazza.  The park is generally free to enter and open during the day. It’s a pleasant green oasis perfect for a break between sightseeing or a casual stroll through the heart of the city.
This park feels like a breath of fresh air in the middle of the chaos. I lived here about ten years ago and back then it was a complete mess, but now it’s truly lovely. You can relax surrounded by nature, enjoy the calm atmosphere, and even spot the little parrots flying around. A really pleasant place to take a break.
I've been here on 21 and 22 of February, when the Chinese New Year event took place at the square. It was a beautiful event, chosen wisely because of the park's green areas and space for all the stalls. I enjoyed the view of the setting sun from the square and I have to admit, Rome never surprised me more. The food was so good, I had two Tayaki Macha Gelatos each day! you should definetly come!
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II was a really nice place to relax for a while. There were some people around, but it wasn’t too crowded, so it still felt calm and comfortable. There were plenty of places to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. The sunset there was especially beautiful and made the whole square feel even more peaceful. A great spot to take a break and enjoy Rome.
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