Church of Santa Maria dei Greci
The floor gives it away immediately: beneath panels of glass, you can see the worn stone foundations of a Doric temple that was already ancient when the Normans arrived. The Church of Santa Maria dei Greci on Via Atenea is, in the most literal sense, built on top of the ancient city — a hexastyle peripteral temple, likely dedicated to Athena, whose fluted column bases still stand in a corridor along the outer wall.
The church has been many things: a Greek-Orthodox cathedral under Byzantine rule, the seat where Bishop Gerlando held Mass in 1092 while Agrigento's cathedral was still under construction, and eventually a Latin Catholic church shaped by the Chiaramonte and Pujades families in the 14th and 15th centuries.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who return tend to linger in the corridor alongside the outer wall, where six column bases from the original Greek temple sit at knee height, close enough to touch. The 14th-century fresco cycle of the Madonna del Latte, easy to overlook in the dim nave, rewards a slow look — the pigment has survived remarkably well.
The story behind Church of Santa Maria dei Greci
Beneath the current church lies a 5th-century BCE Doric temple — some scholars identify it with the temple of Athena Lindia and Zeus Atabyrios mentioned by Polybius — measuring roughly 35 by 15 metres. During Byzantine rule the site functioned as a Greek-Orthodox cathedral, which gave the church its name. After the Norman conquest, Bishop Gerlando used it as a temporary cathedral in 1092.
The building as it stands dates from the 12th and 13th centuries, with its Chiaramontano Gothic façade portal added in the 14th to 15th century under the influence of the Chiaramonte and Pujades families. The Pujades also commissioned a fresco cycle in the 15th century. Early 20th-century restorations altered the exterior considerably; excavations between 2002 and 2004 uncovered the 16th-century crypt now visible through the glass floor.
Good to know
Reach it via the steep Via Saponara staircase off Via Matteotti. Entry is covered by a €7 combined ticket that also includes the Diocesan Museum and Cathedral. Tourist access pauses during Mass (weekday mornings at 8:30) and private services. Allow around an hour.
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What travellers say about Church of Santa Maria dei Greci
You should definitely visit this cool church if you come to Agrigento, so nice and beautiful
Church of Santa Maria dei Greci: A hidden gem worth a visit. I recently visited the church of Santa Maria dei Greci and I must say that it is a true hidden gem, worth a visit if you are in Agrigento. The church is located in a somewhat remote location, but accessing it is easy and worth the effort. Inside, the atmosphere is truly evocative and the history of the place can be felt in every corner. The frescoes, decorations and the structure of the church itself tell the story of centuries of history and the cultures that have converged here. It is an experience that truly transports you back in time. The most interesting element is undoubtedly the opportunity to see the ruins of the Doric temple on which the church was built. It is fascinating to see how the foundations of the Greek temple have been incorporated into the medieval structure, creating a unique fusion of different eras and styles. The only downside, which I was really disappointed with, was that the elevator was not working. For those with mobility issues or who simply prefer to avoid stairs, this is a real drawback and a service that should never be missing from a place of such historical and cultural importance. I sincerely hope that it is repaired as soon as possible, as it prevents some people from fully enjoying this heritage. Despite this minor inconvenience, the visit was very enjoyable and I highly recommend it. If you are passionate about history, art and archaeology, you should not miss it.
amazing places, remember to visit the museum part as well.
Ok, it's yet another church, one that you have to pay for! But you get a miny vr experience that's novel and you get to climb two bell towers (only the one closer to the entrance is worth it). Entrance fee is part of the combo ticket from valley of the temples. In retrospect I would just done the valley and (the recommended) archeological museum in only.
Very interesting and beautiful place. You can see and get close to the typical three steps of the Greek temple upon which the church is erected. The curch itself is a welcome difference to the baroque churches of Sicily with a rather humble decor and also murals dating almost a thousand years old and the glass floor, allowing you to see the underground of the church. The courtyard in front of the church is also beautiful and gets visited by cats, which I love. Best thing was the ticket vendor though. As all the staff of the church sights in Agrigento he was very friendly and helpful. Also well versed in English and apparently all Roman languages. He took his time to answer all questions I had regarding the church and the town. Clearly a professional in thing regarding archeology and history. I asked him a out a full 20 minutes.
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