Balze di Volterra
The ground at Volterra's western edge is still leaving. That's the first thing to understand about the Balze — these aren't ancient ruins frozen in time but an erosion zone actively consuming the land it stands on. Sediments laid down by a sea 2.5 million years ago built up in layers of sand and clay; the clay keeps dissolving, the sand above keeps collapsing, and the result is a series of pale, near-vertical cliffs dropping into gullied ravines that look almost lunar against the Tuscan sky.
On clear days you can see the coast from the rocky overhangs. Below your feet, somewhere in the clay, lie the remains of a Villanovian necropolis, Etruscan walls, and several early Christian churches — swallowed not by time but by the hillside itself.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who come back tend to time it for late afternoon, when the cliffs catch the low sun and the shadows in the gullies deepen. The trail from the parking area is steep for the first hundred metres, then it levels and loops around — manageable, no technical gear required. The viewpoint near Porta Mensari is the one worth the small detour.
The story behind Balze di Volterra
The erosion here has been running longer than any human settlement in the area, but its consequences for Volterra's history are specific and irreversible. The city's largest necropolis, used continuously from the Villanovian period through the Etruscan era, was gradually swallowed by the Balze. A sudden landslide in the early 1800s took a significant stretch of Etruscan walls and the houses built against them in a single event.
The Badia Camaldolese — a monastery dedicated to Saints Giusti and Clemente, founded in 1034 — survived for centuries on the cliff edge before a violent earthquake in the mid-1800s finally forced the monks to higher ground. Its cloister and refectory are still standing and still well-preserved. Grand Duke Cosimo II attempted to stabilise the slopes during his reign, and the efforts continued into the 19th century; the land, for the most part, ignored them.
Good to know
The Balze sit about 2 km west of Piazza dei Priori — a short walk or a quick drive to the nearby parking area. The Badia Camaldolese abbey opens free of charge on summer weekends (1 July–1 October, Friday to Sunday). The Volterra Card (€20, 72 hours) covers multiple sites and is sold at the Tourist Office in town, not online.
Spring and early autumn give the most comfortable walking conditions — warm enough without the heat that settles over the exposed cliffs in July and August. Winter visits are possible and quiet, but the paths can be slippery after rain, and the abbey is closed.
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What travellers say about Balze di Volterra
The campsite Balze di Volterra is a quiet and pretty place, with a very friendly and easy going owner and a spectacular view across the tuscan landscape just behind the campsite. Enjoy a cappuccino and a warm croissant for breakfast on the terrace before you walk (or take a bus drive) to the sightseeing places of Volterra. Only negativ point: The facilities are a bit old.;-)
The view is beautiful, but it not worth a special detour if it’s not on your way already. Also, the guide book suggested us to hike there from Volterra, but it’s not safe as there is no pedestrian path from the town, so we had to drive. Walking from Volterra is not safe and such a risky walk is not worth the effort
Interesting cliffs and the nearby monestary was interesting to see as well.
Great place to watch mother earth at work ;-)
Not as majestic as I thought, especially when you see the rest of amazing views of Tuscany, but still, worth seeing while visiting Volterra :)
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