Mercato Settimanale di Zagarolo
Every Thursday morning the streets near the town centre fill with the cheerful noise of Zagarolo's weekly open-air market, where farmers from the Castelli Romani hills unload seasonal vegetables, local cheeses, cured meats and no-nonsense household goods at prices that remind you how good Italian life can be.
What to Buy
The Castelli Romani micro-region is famous for its porcini mushrooms in autumn, fragrant strawberries in late spring and fat artichokes (romanesco variety) from February through April — the market stalls track the seasons faithfully and vendors will happily let you taste before you buy.
Look for local pecorino aged in the hills around Palestrina, hand-rolled pasta sold by nonnas from folding tables, and bottles of house-label Frascati or Colli Lanuvini white wine that you will not find in any supermarket.
The Social Ritual
Romans who moved to the suburbs decades ago still drive up on Thursday mornings specifically for this market — it functions as much as a social gathering as a shopping errand, with espresso taken standing at the nearby bar between rounds of the stalls.
Arrive before 9 am for the best selection and the most photogenic light; by noon the best produce is gone and stallholders begin packing up.
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