Lombrichelli al Sugo di Cinghiale
Lombrichelli — thick, hand-rolled pasta made from nothing but flour and water — is the soul food of the Viterbo province, and eating a steaming bowl of it dressed with slow-cooked wild boar ragù in a no-frills trattoria is the defining culinary experience of a visit to this part of Lazio. The texture is chewy, the sauce is deep and gamey, and the whole thing costs less than a glass of wine in Rome
The Pasta and Its Story
Lombrichelli (sometimes called stringozzi or umbricelli in neighbouring regions) are made by rolling small pieces of dough between the palms into irregular, worm-like strands — the name derives from 'lombrico', the Italian word for earthworm. The rough surface catches sauce magnificently, which is why rich, slow-cooked ragùs of wild boar, hare or lamb are the traditional pairings.
The dish is a product of Viterbo's position on the edge of the Monti Cimini and Monti Vulsini, where wild boar have been hunted since Etruscan times. The ragù is typically made with local Canino olive oil, red wine from the Colli Etruschi Viterbesi DOC and a handful of wild herbs — simple, seasonal and completely satisfying.
Where to Eat It
Trattoria Il Richiastro on Via della Marrocca in the old centre is the most celebrated address for traditional Viterbese cooking: the lombrichelli here are made fresh each morning and the cinghiale ragù has been simmering on the stove since dawn. Booking ahead for lunch is strongly advised.
For a more casual version, Osteria del Vecchio Orologio near Piazza del Plebiscito also does an excellent rendition, with the added bonus of outdoor tables on a quiet medieval square. Pair the pasta with a carafe of local Grechetto or Est! Est!! Est!!! from nearby Montefiascone.
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