Baccalà alla Vicentina at Righetti
Baccalà alla Vicentina — dried salt cod braised for hours in milk, onion, anchovies and Parmigiano — is so central to local identity that Vicenza has a dedicated confraternity devoted to it. The best place to try it without ceremony or inflated prices is the self-service trattoria Righetti, a beloved institution on Piazza Duomo.
Why This Dish Is Uniquely Vicentino
Despite being landlocked, Vicenza developed a deep love for Norwegian stockfish (stoccafisso, always called baccalà here) thanks to 15th-century trade routes through Venice. The slow-cooked result bears no resemblance to the rubbery fish you might fear — it melts into a creamy, savoury stew that clings to a slab of soft polenta.
The confraternity 'Venerabile Confraternita del Bacalà alla Vicentina' has codified the recipe: no tomato, no garlic, a minimum four-hour braise, and always served on polenta, never pasta. Deviations are taken seriously.
Eating at Righetti
Righetti (Piazza Duomo 3) has been feeding locals since 1943 with a rotating daily menu of Veneto classics at honest prices. You grab a tray, point at what you want, pay at the till and eat at communal tables — often next to city council workers and retired professors in equal measure.
The baccalà appears on Fridays as tradition demands. Arrive by 12:15 or the best dishes sell out. The house wine, served in a small ceramic jug, is perfectly drinkable and costs almost nothing.
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