Supplì Roma on Via di San Francesco a Ripa
A supplì is Rome's answer to the arancino — a torpedo of risotto rice, tomato ragù and molten fior di latte mozzarella, fried until the breadcrumb shell shatters. Supplì Roma in Trastevere has been perfecting the formula since 1979 and the queue outside is the only review you need.
What to Order
The classic supplì al telefono is named for the way the melted mozzarella stretches between the two halves when you pull it apart — like a telephone cord, as Romans have called it since the 1930s. It costs around €2.50 and is eaten standing on the pavement, wrapped in paper, within seconds of being handed over.
Beyond the classic, Supplì Roma rotates creative fillings: cacio e pepe (the famous Roman pasta sauce translated into rice), amatriciana, and seasonal specials. Order two — the classic and one rotating special — for a proper tasting.
The Trastevere Setting
Via di San Francesco a Ripa sits in the heart of Trastevere, the medieval neighbourhood across the Tiber that remains the most authentically Roman quarter close to the Vatican. The street is cobbled, the buildings are ochre and terracotta, and the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is a five-minute walk away.
The shop itself is tiny — a counter, a fryer, a chalk board. Eat outside and watch the neighbourhood go about its business: nonne with shopping bags, Vespas threading the alleys, children kicking footballs against ancient walls.
When to Go
Supplì Roma opens at lunch and again in the evening. The lunch queue moves fast. Evening queues on weekends can stretch around the corner but move quickly because the operation is ruthlessly efficient — they fry in batches and rarely run out before closing.
Pair your supplì with a cold Birra Moretti from the bar next door or a glass of house white from any of the nearby osterie. This is not fine dining; it is Roman street food at its most honest and delicious.
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