Mercato di Piazza Monte Grappa
Twice a week the grand piazza at the heart of Varese transforms into a sprawling open-air market where farmers from the surrounding valleys arrive with cheeses, mushrooms, honey and whatever the season has produced. It is the single best place to understand what people in this corner of Lombardy actually eat.
What to Buy
Look for formagella del Luinese, a soft cow's-milk cheese from the valleys north of Varese, and the local salame di Varese, which is finer-grained and more delicately spiced than its Milanese cousin. In autumn, vendors sell fresh porcini and chestnuts by the kilo.
The honey stalls are exceptional — producers from the pre-Alpine foothills bring acacia, chestnut and wildflower varieties, and most will let you taste before you buy. A 500 g jar makes a far better souvenir than anything sold in an airport.
Beyond Food
The outer ring of stalls sells clothing, household goods and plants, which is where you will find Varese residents rather than tourists. It is a good reminder that this is a working market, not a curated food hall.
Arrive by 09:00 for the best selection and to catch the farmers who often sell out of their most interesting products by mid-morning. The market winds down around 13:00.
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