La Poissonnerie du Mourillon
This no-frills fish restaurant tucked behind the Mourillon beaches has been feeding Toulonnais fishermen, naval officers and in-the-know visitors since the 1970s. The menu is whatever came off the boats that morning, chalked on a blackboard, and the cooking is respectful — grilled, steamed or in a proper bouillabaisse made the Var way, with rouille that bites back.
What to Order
The grilled daurade royale (gilt-head bream) is the signature: a whole fish scored and brushed with olive oil from the Var, served with a wedge of lemon and a side of ratatouille that has been cooking since morning. It is the platonic ideal of Mediterranean simplicity.
On Fridays, the kitchen makes a traditional bourride — a creamy white-fish stew thickened with aioli that is richer and less theatrical than bouillabaisse but arguably more delicious. It sells out by 13:30, so arrive early or book ahead.
The Atmosphere
Plastic chairs, paper tablecloths, a terrace that faces a small car park rather than the sea — La Poissonnerie du Mourillon has never bothered with ambience because it has never needed to. The room fills with locals who eat here twice a week and tourists who stumble in and immediately understand why.
Carafes of local Bandol blanc arrive without being asked and the service is brisk in the way that only French family restaurants can be brisk — efficient but never cold.
Practical Details
The restaurant is at 23 Rue de la Mitre in Le Mourillon; reservations are strongly advised for Friday lunch and weekend dinners, when the terrace fills completely.
Budget around €25–35 per person for a full meal with wine — exceptional value for the quality of fish you will eat.
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