Trattoria da Carlino
A handful of tables, a handwritten menu that changes daily and a kitchen that has been turning out honest Ternano cooking since the 1970s — Trattoria da Carlino on Via Piemonte is exactly the kind of place that travel magazines never find but locals refuse to give up.
What to Order
Start with the umbricelli al tartufo nero — thick hand-rolled pasta tossed with a simple sauce of local black truffle, garlic and good olive oil. It is the definitive dish of this corner of Umbria and Carlino's version is made with pasta rolled that morning.
Terni has a proud offal tradition: the coratella (lamb offal sautéed with white wine, rosemary and lemon) is an acquired taste but a deeply regional one worth trying. For the less adventurous, the grilled lamb chops with wild chicory are outstanding.
The Wine and the Atmosphere
The house wine is a robust local Rosso from the Colli Amerini DOC, served in ceramic jugs for around €4 a half-litre — order it without hesitation.
The dining room seats perhaps 30 people across bare wooden tables; arrive by 13:00 for lunch or 20:00 for dinner to be sure of a table, as reservations are taken but the system is informal at best.
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