Trattoria Il Caffè di Mimmo
A short walk from the fish market on the old town island, Il Caffè di Mimmo is the kind of unpretentious, fluorescent-lit trattoria that serious eaters fly to Italy for. The menu changes with whatever the boats brought in that morning, and the raw seafood antipasto — a theatrical parade of local mussels, oysters, sea urchins, clams and date mussels — is the definitive Taranto meal.
What to Order
Begin with the crudo misto: a platter of whatever raw bivalves are freshest that day, served with lemon wedges and rough bread. The Mar Piccolo mussels here have a salinity and sweetness that farmed mussels elsewhere simply cannot replicate.
Follow with spaghetti alle cozze in bianco — pasta with mussels in white wine, garlic and parsley — a dish so simple it acts as a direct transmission of the lagoon's flavour. Resist the urge to add cheese; locals will judge you.
If available, order the polpo alla pignata, octopus slow-cooked in a terracotta pot with tomatoes and potatoes — a dish that takes three hours to make and tastes like it.
The Atmosphere and Practicalities
The dining room is small, noisy and packed with fishermen, pensioners and the occasional knowing tourist — the mix is part of the charm. Tables are covered in paper, wine comes in unlabelled carafes of local Primitivo, and the bill will surprise you with its modesty.
Booking is advisable for Friday and Saturday lunch, when the fish market crowd migrates here directly. On weekdays, arriving by 12:30 usually secures a table.
The trattoria is located on the old town island near the waterfront — confirm the current address locally or via Google Maps before visiting, as signage is minimal.
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