Winstub zum Pfifferhüs
Tucked into a 16th-century half-timbered house on the Rue du Sel, Zum Pfifferhüs is the kind of winstub that Alsatians themselves drive to on a Sunday — warm wood panelling, Flammekueche fresh from a wood-fired oven and a wine list that reads like a map of the nearby Route des Vins. It is unhurried, unfussy and completely the real thing.
What to Order
The Flammekueche nature — thin, crisp dough topped with crème fraîche, lardons and onions — is the benchmark dish and arrives blistered and fragrant from the oven. Order a second one; they are designed to be shared and eaten fast while hot.
For a main, the choucroute garnie is a serious, multi-component affair: sauerkraut braised in Riesling, topped with a selection of smoked and cured pork cuts and accompanied by floury boiled potatoes. It is the dish Alsace does better than anywhere else on earth.
Drinking Like a Local
The wine list focuses on Alsatian producers, with a strong showing from the Sélestat cooperative and nearby domaines in Kintzheim and Châtenois. Ask for a Sylvaner if you want something crisp and low-key with the Flammekueche, or a Pinot Gris to stand up to the choucroute.
The house Kir Alsacien — Crémant d'Alsace with a dash of local blackcurrant liqueur — makes an excellent aperitif and sets the tone perfectly for a long, leisurely lunch.
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