Porceddu at Agriturismo Su Vruccuri, Oliena
In the mountain village of Oliena, tucked beneath the limestone walls of Supramonte in the Nuoro province, Su Vruccuri is the kind of agriturismo where the meal is the entire afternoon. The house centrepiece is porceddu — a whole suckling pig slow-roasted over myrtle and olive wood until the skin crackles like caramel glass.
The Meal
Lunch begins with antipasti of cured meats, fresh ricotta, olives and carta di musica flatbread before the pig arrives on a wooden board, jointed at the table and served with roasted potatoes and bitter greens foraged from the hillside that morning.
The local Cannonau di Sardegna red wine poured freely throughout is made from the same property's vines — bold, tannic and somehow exactly right with the fatty, herb-scented meat.
The Setting
Tables are set under a pergola of climbing vines with the grey-white cliffs of Monte Corrasi visible above the tree line; it is the kind of lunch that erases all plans for the rest of the day.
Book at least two days ahead in summer; the fixed menu costs around €30–€35 per person all-inclusive and runs Friday through Sunday.
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