Buca Mario & the Florentine Steak Tradition
Florence's Santa Croce neighbourhood is the spiritual home of the bistecca Fiorentina — a T-bone from Chianina cattle, cut at least four centimetres thick, grilled over oak charcoal and served bloody, salted and nothing else. Knowing where to eat it is half the experience.
Where to Eat It
Buca Mario on Piazza degli Ottaviani (a short walk from Santa Croce) claims to be Florence's oldest restaurant, open since 1886. The vaulted basement dining room and white-jacketed waiters make it feel like eating inside a history lesson. Order the bistecca for two (sold by weight, typically 1.2–1.4 kg) and a carafe of house Chianti.
For a more neighbourhood feel, Trattoria Cibrèo on Via dei Macci serves Tuscan classics without the tourist premium. It shares a kitchen with the celebrated Ristorante Cibrèo next door but at roughly half the price — no reservations, cash preferred, arrive at 19:30 when it opens.
The Rules of Bistecca
A genuine bistecca Fiorentina comes from the Chianina or Maremmana breed, aged a minimum of 15 days and cooked al sangue (very rare). Asking for it well done is considered a serious offence in any self-respecting Florentine kitchen — some restaurants will politely refuse.
The steak is priced per 100g (typically €5–9/100g at quality restaurants), so a full bistecca for two will cost €50–80 before wine. It sounds steep until you taste it.
Street Food Alternative: Lampredotto
If budget is a concern, the Santa Croce quarter's street food answer is lampredotto — the fourth stomach of a cow, slow-braised in tomato and herbs, sliced and served in a bun dipped in broth. It sounds alarming and tastes magnificent.
The best nearby vendor is Nerbone's satellite cart near Piazza dei Ciompi, though the original Nerbone operates inside Mercato Centrale. A lampredotto sandwich costs around €4 and is one of the most authentic things you can eat in Florence.
More of Santa Croce
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Santa Croce →
