Panorama from the Butte de Vauquois
Thirty kilometres east of Sainte-Menehould, the Butte de Vauquois is one of the most extraordinary WWI sites in France and delivers a panoramic view over the Argonne that is worth every kilometre of the drive. The hilltop village was entirely destroyed by underground mine warfare, and the resulting landscape is unlike anything else in Europe.
The View and the Void
From the crest of the Butte, the Argonne forest spreads in every direction — a sea of green in summer, copper and rust in autumn. On a clear day the view extends well beyond the Meuse valley. The contrast between the pastoral landscape below and the cratered moonscape at your feet is extraordinary.
The summit craters, some 20 metres deep, were created by underground mines detonated by both French and German tunnellers between 1914 and 1918. Walking the rim of these craters while looking out over peaceful farmland is one of the most thought-provoking experiences in the entire Champagne region.
Getting There and What to Bring
The Butte is managed by the Association des Amis de Vauquois, which runs guided tours of the underground tunnels on weekend afternoons from April to November — booking ahead is strongly recommended as groups are small.
The site is free to visit independently at any time; the tunnel tours cost a few euros and last about 90 minutes. Wear old clothes and shoes you don't mind getting muddy underground.
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