Marché de Saint-Cyprien (Sunday Market)
Every Sunday morning the Place du Général de Gaulle transforms into one of the liveliest weekly markets in the Périgord Noir, drawing farmers, foragers and foodies from across the valley. Arrive before 9 am to watch the stalls fill with foie gras terrines, walnuts, goat's cheese and, in winter, the unmistakable earthy perfume of fresh black truffles.
What to look for on the stalls
The market runs from roughly 8 am to 1 pm and is at its most atmospheric between late October and March, when Périgord black truffles (Tuber melanosporum) appear on specialist stalls alongside preserved duck confit, rillettes and magret séché.
In summer the produce shifts to sun-ripened tomatoes, courgette flowers, lavender honey and strawberries from the nearby Lot-et-Garonne. A handful of artisan stalls sell hand-thrown pottery and linen table runners — practical souvenirs that actually fit in a suitcase.
Eating and drinking at the market
Several producers set up tasting tables where you can sample walnut oil pressed just kilometres away, or a sliver of aged Cabécou goat's cheese on a wooden board. Pair it with a plastic cup of Bergerac rosé poured directly from a local domaine's barrel.
The café-bar on the square, Le Périgord, opens early and is the place locals head for a grand crème and a slice of walnut tart before the shopping begins — grab a table on the terrace and watch the market come alive around you.
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