Tonnarello in Trastevere
Trastevere's cobblestone lanes hide dozens of trattorias, but Tonnarello on Via della Paglia has earned its reputation the hard way — with honest Roman pasta at fair prices and a terrace that buzzes with a mix of neighbourhood regulars and savvy visitors. The cacio e pepe here is textbook: glossy, peppery and made with tonnarello pasta (a thick square-cut spaghetti).
What to Order
Start with carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style deep-fried artichokes) if they are in season (October–May) — they arrive crackling and golden like edible flowers. Follow with the house tonnarello cacio e pepe or the amatriciana, both priced around €10–12.
Finish with a tiramisù made in-house and a shot of house limoncello, which arrives gratis with the bill — a Roman trattoria tradition that never gets old.
Navigating Trastevere
Arrive at 7:30 pm when the restaurant opens to avoid a wait; by 8:30 pm the terrace queue can stretch around the corner. Reservations are accepted by phone but the real Trastevere experience is turning up and waiting with a glass of house white.
After dinner, stroll to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere — Rome's most beautiful neighbourhood square — where the 12th-century basilica glitters with Byzantine mosaics under floodlights and street musicians play until midnight.
More of Rome (Historic Centre)
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Rome (Historic Centre) →
