Restaurant Goûts et Couleurs, Rodez
Chef Jean-Luc Fau has been cooking quietly brilliant food in this stone-walled restaurant on Place du Bourg for years, earning a Michelin star that he wears lightly. The menu reads like a love letter to the Aveyron: Aubrac beef, Laguiole cheese soufflé, river trout from the Dourdou, and wild herbs gathered from the Ségala.
What to order
The signature starter is a warm Laguiole tart with a green salad dressed in walnut oil — simple on paper, revelatory on the palate because the cheese is sourced directly from the Coopérative Jeune Montagne in Laguiole. For a main, the côte de bœuf Aubrac for two is dry-aged and grilled over vine cuttings, arriving at the table with aligot that stretches a full metre from the pot.
The cheese trolley is one of the finest in the Aveyron département, featuring at least eight raw-milk cheeses in perfect condition, including the elusive Pérail de brebis and a farmhouse Roquefort selected by Fau personally. Finish with the millefeuille à la crème de Laguiole — flaky, creamy and worth the caloric investment.
Booking and budget
Lunch is the best-value entry point: a two-course formule déjeuner costs around €28 and includes a glass of Marcillac or a Côtes de Millau white. The dining room seats only 35 covers and fills up quickly on market days (Wednesday and Saturday), so book at least a week ahead in summer.
The wine list leans heavily into south-west France, with excellent selections from Marcillac, Entraygues-le-Fel and Estaing — three tiny AOCs that most French wine lovers have never tasted. Ask sommelier for a glass of Entraygues white with your trout and you will not regret it.
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