Ferme Auberge de Mathieu, Gramat
The Causse de Gramat plateau surrounding Rocamadour is lamb and duck country, and the ferme-auberges (farm restaurants) of the area serve the most honest, generous expression of Quercy cuisine you will find anywhere. Ferme Auberge de Mathieu, a working sheep farm near Gramat (12 km from Rocamadour), is a benchmark for the genre.
What to Order
The signature dish is gigot d'agneau du Quercy — slow-roasted leg of Quercy lamb, raised on the same causses limestone plateau where the restaurant sits, served with flageolet beans and gratin dauphinois. The lamb has AOP (protected designation) status and its flavour, from a diet of wild thyme and juniper, is unmistakably mineral and sweet.
Start with a terrine de foie gras maison with toasted pain de campagne and Monbazillac, then finish with a walnut tart made with noix du Périgord AOP oil. The set menu (menu du terroir) typically runs to four courses and represents extraordinary value for the quality on the plate.
The Farm Setting
The dining room is a converted stone barn with exposed beams and long communal tables — no pretension, no tablecloths, just big portions and good Cahors wine poured generously. In summer, tables spill onto a terrace overlooking the causses with views stretching to the horizon.
Booking is essential, especially July and August, as the auberge serves a fixed number of covers per sitting. Lunch is the main service; many ferme-auberges in the region do not open for dinner, so plan accordingly and arrive hungry.
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