Restaurante O Xantar
Tucked on Rúa San Francisco in the old town, O Xantar is the kind of unfussy, family-run Galician restaurant that regulars guard jealously — the menú del día at lunch offers three courses of genuinely local cooking for around €13, and the pulpo á feira (octopus with paprika and olive oil) is among the best in the comarca.
What to order
Start with the berberechos al vapor (steamed cockles) or a plate of jamón de Galicia, then move to the pulpo á feira — served the traditional way on a wooden board, sliced thick, dusted with pimentón de la Vera and drizzled with grassy local olive oil. The texture is tender without being mushy, which takes real skill.
For mains, the merluza a la gallega (hake in a paprika and potato broth) is a masterclass in restraint, letting the freshness of the fish do the work. Finish with tarta de Santiago — the almond cake dusted with a powdered-sugar cross of St James.
Atmosphere and booking
The dining room is plain and bright with paper tablecloths and a blackboard menu that changes with the market. You will hear Galician spoken at most tables and the television may be on — this is a neighbourhood restaurant, not a boutique dining experience, and that is precisely its charm.
Reservations are recommended on weekends and during the summer months; call ahead or ask your accommodation to book. The restaurant fills quickly after 2 pm on Saturdays.
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