Sentiero dell'Ulivo: Rapallo to San Michele di Pagana
The Sentiero dell'Ulivo (Olive Tree Path) is a well-marked coastal trail that links Rapallo to the tiny fishing hamlet of San Michele di Pagana in about 45 minutes, threading through century-old olive groves and terraced gardens with continuous sea views. It's the most rewarding easy walk on this stretch of the Riviera.
The walk itself
The trail begins at the eastern end of Rapallo's lungomare near the castle causeway, climbing gently through a residential neighbourhood before entering the olive groves proper. The path is mostly shaded, wide enough for two abreast and well-signposted with the yellow Sentiero dell'Ulivo markers.
As you gain height, the views back over the Golfo del Tigullio become increasingly spectacular — Rapallo's pastel waterfront, the castle on its promontory and the dark green Portofino peninsula stretching into the sea. In May the terraces are carpeted with wild flowers; in October the olive harvest is underway and you may see nets spread under the trees.
San Michele di Pagana: the reward at the end
The hamlet of San Michele di Pagana is little more than a cluster of painted houses around a small harbour and the Romanesque church of San Michele, which contains a painting attributed to Anthony van Dyck — remarkable for a village of this size. The church is usually open in the mornings.
Sit at the waterfront bar in San Michele, order a Spritz and watch the fishing boats bob in the harbour. A local bus (Line 3 from Rapallo) runs back along the coastal road if you'd rather not retrace your steps — the journey takes about 12 minutes.
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