Mercato Settimanale di Polignano (Weekly Market)
Every Tuesday morning, Polignano a Mare's weekly market spreads along Viale Aldo Moro and the surrounding streets on the inland edge of town, drawing farmers, fishmongers and artisans from across the Valle d'Itria. It is the most honest snapshot of everyday Pugliese life you will find in this otherwise tourist-polished town.
What to buy
The food stalls are the reason to come: vendors sell fat Barese olives marinated in chilli and fennel seed, fresh friselle (twice-baked barley rings), local burrata from nearby Monopoli dairies, dried figs stuffed with almonds and dark chocolate, and the season's vegetables — enormous Pugliese tomatoes, wild chicory and fresh broad beans in spring.
Non-food stalls sell hand-embroidered linen tablecloths, terracotta from Grottaglie (the ceramic capital of Puglia, 90 km south), inexpensive cotton sundresses and the blue-and-white ceramics that have become shorthand for Apulian style. Prices are negotiable; a polite 'fa uno sconto?' goes a long way.
Practical tips
The market runs from around 7:30 am to 1 pm every Tuesday; arrive before 9 am for the best produce and before the heat builds. It is a working market, not a tourist event, so bring a canvas bag, small euros and a willingness to mime if your Italian is limited.
After the market, walk 10 minutes back into the old town and stop at Panificio Fiore on Via Martiri di Dogali for a warm focaccia barese drizzled with local olive oil — the ideal market-morning breakfast.
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