Food & drink · Polignano a Mare

Grotta Palazzese Restaurant

Carved into the cliff face 30 metres above the Adriatic, Grotta Palazzese is one of the most theatrical dining rooms on earth — a natural limestone cave lit by candles and the last of the evening light bouncing off the water below. The setting is genuinely jaw-dropping, and the Pugliese seafood menu holds its own against the spectacle.

Grotta Palazzese Restaurant
Photo by AXP Photography on Pexels

The experience

Tables are set on a terrace jutting into the cave mouth, open to the sea breeze and the sound of waves echoing off the vaulted rock. The cave has been used for banquets since the 18th century — an 1783 engraving by Jean-Louis Desprez records a noble feast here — making it one of Italy's oldest al-fresco dining traditions.

The menu leans heavily on Adriatic catch: raw sea urchin, orecchiette with local clams, grilled dentice (sea bream) and a dessert trolley that includes a very respectable pasticciotto. Prices are high by Pugliese standards but fair for the experience.

Practical advice

Reservations are essential from May through September and should be made weeks in advance online via the hotel's website (the cave is part of Hotel Grotta Palazzese on Via Narciso). Request a table on the outer terrace rather than inside the hotel dining room — that is the cave seat you came for.

Dress code is smart casual; flip-flops will get you turned away. Lunch is also served and is slightly easier to book, but the evening light and candlelit atmosphere make dinner the definitive choice.

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