Selva de Irati
Straddling the Pyrenean foothills in northern Navarre, the Selva de Irati is the second-largest primeval beech and silver-fir forest in Europe after the Białowieża in Poland. In autumn it ignites in every shade of copper, amber and gold — a spectacle that stops hikers mid-stride.
Walking Inside the Forest
The Embalse de Irabia reservoir at the forest's heart is the classic starting point for day hikes. The well-marked PR-NA 47 trail loops around the water through cathedral-like stands of beech, their roots gripping mossy boulders like ancient hands. The full loop is about 12 km and takes 4 hours at a relaxed pace.
In spring and early summer the forest floor is carpeted with wood anemones and wild garlic, and you have a real chance of spotting roe deer, red squirrel and — if you're very quiet at dusk — the occasional Pyrenean chamois on the ridges above.
Autumn Colour and Practical Tips
The best foliage window is typically mid-October to early November, when the beeches turn and the low Pyrenean light filters gold through the canopy. This is also when the forest is most visited, so aim for weekday mornings and arrive at the Irabia car park before 09:30.
The nearest village with accommodation and restaurants is Ochagavía, a perfectly preserved medieval stone village 15 km south of the forest with several rural casas rurales and a good local restaurant serving roast lamb and trout from the Salazar river.
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