Nature · Morlaix

Forêt de Huelgoat & the Chaos de Rochers

Forty kilometres south of Morlaix, the Forêt de Huelgoat is Brittany's most atmospheric woodland — a tangle of centuries-old oaks draped in moss and lichen, through which a river threads between house-sized granite boulders left by glacial chaos. Celtic legend says the rocks were hurled here by the giant Gargantua, and it is easy to believe it.

Forêt de Huelgoat & the Chaos de Rochers
Photo by wal_ 172619 on Pexels
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The boulder circuit

The Chaos de Rochers trail starts at the car park on Rue du Chaos in Huelgoat village and loops 3 km through the most dramatic rock formations in under 90 minutes. Named landmarks include La Roche Tremblante (a 100-tonne boulder you can rock with one hand if you push the exact right spot), La Grotte du Diable and the Ménage de la Vierge — a cluster of boulders stacked like a ruined kitchen.

The path is waymarked with yellow blazes and is mostly flat, though some sections require stepping over roots and wet rock. Waterproof shoes are advisable even in summer — the canopy keeps the ground perpetually damp and green.

Beyond the chaos: the river and the lake

Follow the Rivière d'Argent (Silver River) downstream from the chaos and you reach a series of small waterfalls and a natural pool where the water runs a clear amber from peat. The 45-hectare Lac de Huelgoat sits at the edge of the forest and is popular for kayaking and wild swimming in summer.

The forest is also a serious birdwatching site: short-toed treecreepers, marsh tits and the occasional red kite hunt through the canopy. The Maison du Parc Naturel Régional d'Armorique in Huelgoat village has free trail maps and seasonal wildlife guides.

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