Restaurant Les Clefs d'Argent
For a sit-down meal that captures everything the Landes table does best — generous, unhurried, rooted in exceptional local produce — Les Clefs d'Argent on Rue Porte-Campet is the address locals give when visitors ask where to eat seriously. The cooking is unashamedly regional, the wine list leans hard into Tursan and Madiran, and the lunch formule is extraordinary value.
What to Order
Start with the foie gras de canard maison, served simply with toast and a glass of chilled Jurançon moelleux — a pairing so correct it feels like it was handed down by law. Follow it with the magret de canard, sliced thick and served with cèpes when in season, or with a confited shallot sauce the rest of the year.
The cheese trolley, a dying institution in many French restaurants, still rolls to your table here with a selection of local and regional cheeses including Ossau-Iraty from the nearby Pyrenean foothills. Do not skip it.
The Room and the Ritual
The dining room is comfortable without being fussy — white tablecloths, dark wood, framed prints of the Landes landscape. Service is professional and genuinely warm; the staff know the provenance of every product on the plate and will tell you if you ask.
Lunch is the smarter visit: the two-course formule offers the full quality of the kitchen at a fraction of the à la carte price, and you'll finish just in time for a digestive stroll along the river.
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