Food & drink · Massa Marittima

Osteria da Tronca

Tucked into a vaulted stone room on Vicolo Porte, Osteria da Tronca has been feeding Massetani since 1830 and remains stubbornly, gloriously unchanged — the handwritten menu lists whatever was at the market that morning, the house wine arrives in a ceramic jug, and the cinghiale (wild boar) ragù over pici pasta is as good as this dish gets anywhere in Tuscany.

Osteria da Tronca
Photo by Valentin Angel Fernandez on Pexels

What to Order

Start with the antipasto della casa — a rotating board of local cured meats, lard on toast, and pecorino in three ages that functions as a condensed greatest-hits of Maremma larder.

The pici al ragù di cinghiale is the dish the restaurant is known for: hand-rolled thick spaghetti with a slow-cooked wild-boar sauce that has been simmering since morning, deeply savoury and just slightly gamey in the best possible way.

The Room & the Atmosphere

The dining room is a single low-vaulted medieval cellar with mismatched wooden furniture and walls hung with old hunting prints — there is no background music, no dress code, and no Instagram-bait plating.

Tables fill quickly at both lunch (13:00–14:30) and dinner (19:30–21:30), so booking ahead by phone is strongly recommended, especially on weekends in July and August.

Secondi & Dolci

If you have room, the scottiglia — a mixed slow-braised meat stew of Maremma origin combining rabbit, chicken, and lamb — is a dish that appears on almost no tourist-facing menu elsewhere and is worth ordering for the experience alone.

Dessert is typically a cantucci with Vin Santo or a slice of castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake with pine nuts and rosemary) in autumn — simple, seasonal, and exactly right.

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