Restaurant La Vieille Auberge
Tucked just off the main road in the village, La Vieille Auberge has been feeding hungry prehistory tourists and discerning locals for decades with honest, generous cooking rooted in the Périgord Noir tradition. The €22 set lunch menu is one of the best-value meals in the Dordogne.
What to order
Start with the salade périgourdine — a warm salad of gizzards, lardons, walnuts and croutons dressed in walnut oil vinaigrette — then move to the magret de canard, the breast of a fattened duck served pink with a Pécharmant wine reduction. The kitchen does not overcomplicate things, and that restraint is exactly right.
Dessert is almost always a walnut tart or a crème brûlée scented with Armagnac. The cheese board, if you have room, features at least three local varieties and comes with homemade fig jam.
The room and the wine
The dining room has exposed stone walls, heavy oak beams and checked tablecloths — a cliché, perhaps, but one that feels entirely earned in this setting. In summer a shaded terrace opens on the side street, cooler and quieter than the main square.
The wine list leans heavily on Bergerac and Pécharmant appellations, both within 40 km of the village. Ask the patron for his current favourite Pécharmant — he invariably has an opinion and is usually right.
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