Food & drink · Les Contamines-Montjoie

Le Christiania Restaurant

Tucked into the heart of Les Contamines village, Le Christiania has been feeding hungry hikers and skiers since the 1970s with honest, generous Savoyard cooking that never tries to be anything other than exactly what it is. The fondue Savoyarde here — a blend of Beaufort, Comté and Emmental — is the benchmark by which all others in the valley are judged.

What to order

The fondue Savoyarde (for two, around €28 per person) is the non-negotiable starter point. Ask for the version made with local Beaufort d'alpage if it is on the seasonal menu — the nuttier, more complex cheese transforms the dish entirely. Dip slowly, stir constantly, and accept that you will not need dinner.

Tartiflette — the baked gratin of Reblochon cheese, lardons, onions and waxy potatoes — is the other house speciality and arrives in a cast-iron dish still bubbling from the oven. In winter, after a day on the slopes, it is close to perfect.

The atmosphere

The dining room is all exposed pine, cowbells on the wall and the kind of low lighting that makes everyone look like they're having a better holiday than they actually are. In summer, a small terrace opens onto the pedestrian street and is the best people-watching spot in the village.

Service is unhurried in the Savoyard tradition — this is not a place to eat quickly. Order a carafe of local Apremont white wine (crisp, mineral, made for cheese) and settle in.

Booking and practicalities

Reservations are strongly recommended in July, August and the February ski school holidays when the restaurant fills nightly. Call ahead or book through their Facebook page, which is updated regularly.

Vegetarians are well served — the fondue and tartiflette are both meat-free, and the kitchen will adapt the raclette on request. The children's menu is generous and sensibly priced.

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