Chalets de la Balme & the Upper Bon Nant Valley
Most day-trippers to Les Contamines turn back at Notre-Dame de la Gorge, which means the high pastures and ancient stone chalets of La Balme — just 90 minutes further up the valley — remain blissfully uncrowded even in peak summer. This is where the Mont Blanc massif reveals its most intimate, pastoral face.
The walk up
From Notre-Dame de la Gorge, follow the GR TMB markers north-east along the Bon Nant river, crossing the old Roman bridge and climbing steadily through spruce and larch forest before the valley opens dramatically into the wide alpine bowl of La Balme at around 1,706 m.
The path is well-marked, wide enough to walk two abreast and gains roughly 350 m over 5 km — manageable for fit families with older children. The reward at the top is a view straight up to the Tré-la-Tête glacier and the Dômes de Miage that few postcards ever capture.
What you'll find at the top
The Refuge de la Balme sits in the centre of the meadow and serves simple, excellent lunches — soupe de légumes, charcuterie platters, local cheese and homemade tarts — on a sunny terrace with an unobstructed glacier view. It is one of the finest lunch spots in the entire Mont Blanc region.
In July and August the surrounding meadows are carpeted in alpine wildflowers: blue gentians, yellow arnica, purple martagon lilies and the tiny white edelweiss (protected — look, don't pick). Marmots whistle from every boulder field and ibex are regularly spotted on the ridgeline above.
Going further
Strong walkers can continue from La Balme to the Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m) in another 1.5 hours — the point where the Tour du Mont Blanc crosses into the Beaufortain. The views from the col extend south to the Vanoise and on clear days to the Gran Paradiso in Italy.
Return the same way or, for a longer loop, descend via the Plan de la Lai variant trail that drops through different terrain back to Notre-Dame de la Gorge — adding about 45 minutes but rewarding with a completely different perspective.
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