Cala Lunga and the Northern Coast Walk
While day-trippers crowd the beaches near the ferry terminal, the northern coast of La Maddalena island between Cala Lunga and Cala Spalmatore rewards anyone willing to walk fifteen minutes on a dirt track with near-empty coves, dramatic granite headlands and water so clear you can count the pebbles at four metres depth.
The walk itself
Park at Cala Lunga — a sheltered bay with a small beach and a sailing club — and follow the coastal path northwest along the cliff edge. The track is informal but easy to follow; the granite is grippy underfoot and the macchia on either side is dense with wild rosemary and lentisk.
After about 20 minutes you reach a series of unnamed coves accessible by scrambling down the rocks. Each one is slightly different: one has a sandy floor, the next is all smooth pebbles, the third has a natural arch worn through a granite spur that frames the sea like a painting.
What makes it special
This stretch of coast faces northwest toward Corsica, which means afternoon light hits the water at a low angle and turns it an almost fluorescent green-blue. Photographers who know the island come here specifically for the hour before sunset.
The absence of facilities — no bars, no sunbeds, no umbrellas for hire — is the point. Bring a snorkel, a picnic and a book, and the cove is effectively yours.
Cala Spalmatore
The walk ends (or begins, if you prefer a loop) at Cala Spalmatore, a wider beach with slightly more company but still far calmer than the main tourist beaches. The water here is shallow for a long way out, making it ideal for children.
A small beach bar operates in peak season — the granita di limone is made from real lemons and is exactly what you need after the walk back in the afternoon heat.
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