Da Enzo al 29, Rome (Trastevere)
Tucked into a narrow Trastevere lane, Da Enzo al 29 is the kind of no-fuss Roman trattoria that food writers keep trying to keep secret and failing. The cacio e pepe here is a masterclass — three ingredients, flawless execution — and the offal dishes are the real test of a true Roman kitchen.
What to Order
Start with the supplì al telefono (fried rice balls with molten mozzarella centre) and the bruschetta with lard and honey. For primi, the cacio e pepe and rigatoni alla gricia are both non-negotiable; if you can only order one pasta, ask your waiter which is better that day — they will tell you honestly.
For secondi, the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail braised with cocoa and celery) is the dish that separates Da Enzo from every tourist-facing imitation. The abbacchio scottadito (grilled lamb cutlets eaten with your fingers) is equally essential. Finish with a slab of house tiramisu.
Practical Details
The dining room seats around 35 people across two small rooms decorated with old Roman photographs. Bookings are taken by phone and email and fill up fast, especially Thursday–Sunday. Walk-ins are occasionally possible at lunch on weekdays.
Wine is house Frascati or a short list of central Italian labels. Prices are honest: expect €35–45 per person with wine. Cash is preferred though cards are accepted. Via dei Vascellari 29, Trastevere.
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