Osteria La Buca di San Francesco
Down a narrow lane just off the historic centre, this family-run osteria has been feeding Forlì's lawyers, professors and market traders for decades. The menu changes with the seasons and the blackboard, but the hand-rolled tagliatelle al ragù and the roasted rabbit with herbs are near-permanent fixtures for good reason.
What to order
Start with a board of local affettati — cured meats sliced to order — and a glass of Sangiovese di Romagna poured from an unlabelled carafe. This is not a wine-list restaurant; it is a place where the house wine is chosen with as much care as the food.
The tagliatelle here are rolled thinner than the Bologna standard and dressed with a slow-cooked ragù of mixed meats that has a depth suggesting it has been simmering since morning. Follow it with the coniglio alla romagnola (rabbit braised with white wine, rosemary and olives) and you will understand why this region's cooking deserves more international attention.
The room and the atmosphere
The dining room is small — perhaps ten tables — with exposed brick walls, mismatched chairs and the kind of background noise that comes from people genuinely enjoying themselves. Reservations are essential on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Lunch here is the local worker's lunch: two courses, a carafe of wine, water and coffee for around €18–22 per person. It is one of the best-value proper meals in Emilia-Romagna.
Finding it and booking
The osteria does not advertise heavily and has a minimal online presence — a deliberate choice that keeps the clientele local. Ask your hotel to call ahead for a reservation, or simply turn up at 12:15 on a weekday and hope for a cancellation.
It is located on Via della Buca, a short walk from the Abbazia di San Mercuriale. Look for the hand-written menu card in the window.
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