Les Voiles d'Or Restaurant
Tucked into the quayside on the Quai Henri IV, Les Voiles d'Or is the kind of no-nonsense Norman seafood restaurant that Dieppe does better than almost anywhere else in France. The menu follows the morning's catch, the wine list is short and honest, and the coquilles Saint-Jacques gratin is the dish locals recommend to every visitor.
What to order
The coquilles Saint-Jacques à la dieppoise — scallops poached in white wine, cream and mushrooms — is the signature dish of the region and Les Voiles d'Or does a textbook version: sweet, plump scallops from the local fleet, a sauce that is rich without being cloying, served in the shell with a gratin crust.
For a starter, the hareng fumé (smoked herring) with warm potato salad is a classic Dieppe preparation that costs almost nothing and tastes of the sea. Finish with a tarte normande — buttery pastry, custard and caramelised apple — and a small glass of calvados.
The setting and the crowd
The dining room overlooks the inner harbour, and if you time it right you can watch the fishing trawlers unloading their catch while you eat the same fish an hour later. The décor is deliberately unfussy: checked tablecloths, maritime prints, a chalkboard menu.
The clientele is a reassuring mix of Dieppe fishermen, Parisian weekenders and the occasional British day-tripper off the DFDS ferry. Book ahead on Fridays and Saturdays, especially during the scallop season from October to May.
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