Peratallada Medieval Village
Peratallada — the name means 'carved stone' in Catalan — is a perfectly preserved medieval village in the Empordà plain, its castle, walls and houses hewn from the same golden limestone that makes the whole place glow at dusk. It sees a fraction of the visitors that crowd Girona yet is arguably more atmospherically intact.
Wandering the carved streets
The village is small enough to explore in 90 minutes: follow the moat that still rings the outer walls, pass through the arched gateway and climb to the 11th-century castle keep for views over the flat Empordà farmland stretching to the distant sea. The streets are not cobbled but carved directly into the rock — a technique unique to this corner of Catalonia.
The Plaça de les Voltes, a porticoed square at the heart of the village, has changed so little that it has stood in for medieval settings in several Spanish TV productions. Sit at one of the café tables under the stone arches and order a cortado — you will not be in a hurry to leave.
Eating well in the village
Restaurant La Riera, set in a vaulted stone dining room, is the most celebrated table in the village, known for its market-driven Catalan menu: wild mushroom canelons in autumn, spring lamb with romesco, and a wine list focused on Empordà DO producers. Book ahead — it fills with Barcelona weekenders every Friday night.
The surrounding Baix Empordà comarca is dotted with similar but less-visited villages: Ullastret (with its Iberian ruins), Monells and Madremanya are all within 15 minutes by car and make a satisfying half-day loop through medieval Catalonia.
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