Camí de Ronda Coastal Path, Begur to Aiguablava
The Camí de Ronda is an ancient coastal path that once allowed customs guards to patrol the Costa Brava's jagged shoreline — today it is the finest way to experience the coast on foot, linking hidden coves that are unreachable by road. The stretch from Begur south to Aiguablava is the most rewarding section: dramatic cliffs, pine-scented air and water in every shade of blue-green.
The walk itself
The trail from Begur to Aiguablava covers roughly 8 km one way and takes 2.5–3 hours at a relaxed pace with swimming stops. The path descends to five distinct coves — Sa Tuna, Aiguafreda, Fornells, Platja Fonda and Aiguablava — each with its own character, from the fishing-boat hamlet of Sa Tuna to the sheltered turquoise arc of Aiguablava.
Wear trail shoes rather than flip-flops: the path is well-marked with yellow and white blazes but involves rocky scrambles and uneven steps. Bring water, sunscreen and a dry bag for your phone — the temptation to swim at every cove is irresistible.
Highlights along the way
Platja de Fornells has a small beach bar that does cold drinks and a decent bocadillo; it's the ideal halfway-point stop. Aiguablava itself is anchored by the Parador de Aiguablava, a government-run hotel on the headland with a terrace bar open to non-guests — order a gin tonic and watch the sun set over the bay.
Return to Begur by taxi (book ahead in summer, ~€15) or retrace your steps in the cooler late afternoon. The hilltop village of Begur itself deserves an hour: its ruined castle gives a 360-degree view from the Pyrenees to the Montgrí massif.
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