Marché du Boulingrin, Reims
Housed in a magnificent Art Deco concrete hall built in 1929, the Boulingrin is one of the most beautiful covered markets in northern France — and one of the most delicious. On Saturday mornings it overflows onto the surrounding streets with over 100 producers selling everything from Époisses cheese to locally grown saffron.
The Hall Itself Is the Attraction
Architect Émile Maigrot designed the vast, column-free reinforced-concrete vault specifically to let in maximum light, and on a bright morning the effect is theatrical. The building was restored in 2012 and is now a listed historic monument in its own right — worth visiting even before you spot a single radish.
Arrive before 9 am to watch the stalls being set up and to catch the best of the charcuterie and cheese vendors before the crowds descend. The noise, colour and smell of fresh bread baking in the boulangerie stalls at the far end is intoxicating.
What to Buy and Eat
Look for ratafia de Champagne — the region's lesser-known grape-must liqueur — sold by small producers who rarely export. Local andouillette from Troyes is another regional speciality you should try at least once, ideally in a baguette with Dijon mustard from a nearby stall.
Several hot-food vendors set up inside, serving everything from grilled merguez to buckwheat galettes. Grab a glass of Champagne from the cave cooperative stand and eat standing up like a local — it costs far less than any restaurant and tastes twice as good.
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