Lac du Der-Chantecoq
Every autumn, up to 80,000 common cranes descend on Lac du Der-Chantecoq — the largest artificial lake in France — turning the sky above the Champagne plains into one of Europe's great wildlife spectacles. Even outside migration season, this 4,800-hectare reservoir in the southern Champagne humide is a strikingly beautiful and surprisingly little-visited corner of the region.
The Crane Migration
The cranes arrive from Scandinavia and northern Europe between late October and mid-November, using the lake as a staging post on their journey south. At dusk they fly in from surrounding fields in enormous skeins — the sound alone, a rolling bugling call that carries for kilometres, is unforgettable. Dawn departures from the lake are equally spectacular and less crowded with observers.
The Maison de l'Oiseau et du Poisson visitor centre near Giffaumont-Champaubert has excellent displays on the lake's ecology and runs guided dawn crane-watching excursions during migration season. Booking is essential and sells out weeks in advance.
Year-Round Pleasures
Outside migration season, the lake is a peaceful destination for cycling (a 77 km marked circuit runs around the entire perimeter), sailing, and birdwatching — over 300 species have been recorded here, including white-tailed eagles in winter and great crested grebes in summer. The surrounding Champagne humide landscape of hedgerows, wetlands and small farms is quintessentially French and rarely feels touristy.
Three villages were submerged when the lake was created in 1974, and the church tower of Champaubert-aux-Bois still emerges from the water during periods of low water level — an eerie and fascinating sight that local boat tours make a point of visiting.
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