Hidden gem · Castiglione del Lago

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena and the Old Fishermen's Quarter

Below the main corso, on the northern flank of the promontory, a tight knot of medieval lanes descends toward the lake through what was historically the fishermen's quarter of Castiglione del Lago. The small, unassuming Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena sits at its heart and rewards the curious visitor with a beautiful 16th-century painted crucifix and total, blissful quiet.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena and the Old Fishermen's Quarter
Photo by Aliguieri on Pexels
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The Quarter Itself

The lanes here — Via del Forte, Vicolo della Pescheria, and the steps leading down to the old boat-landing — are built from the same pale travertine as the fortress walls and have changed very little since the 16th century. Geraniums spill from windowsills, cats sleep on doorsteps, and you will almost certainly be the only tourist.

Look for the carved stone fish above one of the doorways on Vicolo della Pescheria — a remnant of the guild sign of the fishermen's cooperative that once operated from this street, a tiny piece of social history hiding in plain sight.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena and the Old Fishermen's Quarter
Photo by Jan van der Wolf

The Church

Santa Maria Maddalena is rarely locked during daylight hours and contains a gilded painted crucifix attributed to the Umbrian school of the early 1500s that would draw crowds if it were in a more famous town. The interior is single-nave, whitewashed, and genuinely moving in its simplicity.

From the small piazzetta in front of the church you can glimpse the lake through a gap in the walls — a framed rectangle of blue water that makes for one of the most quietly perfect photographs in Castiglione del Lago.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena and the Old Fishermen's Quarter
Photo by Paul Scheelen
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