Sidrería El Molín de la Pedrera
Tucked into a restored 18th-century watermill on the banks of the Río Güeña, El Molín de la Pedrera is the most atmospheric place in Cangas de Onís to eat cachopo, drink natural cider and feel completely, gloriously Asturian. The stone walls, millstone tables and the sound of rushing water make every meal feel like a celebration.
What to order
Start with a plate of local cheese — Gamonéu del Puerto, made in the high mountain huts of the Picos, has a blue-veined bite and a smoky finish that pairs perfectly with a glass of natural sidra. Follow it with fabada asturiana, the region's canonical white-bean stew loaded with chorizo, morcilla and lacón pork shoulder.
The cachopo is the crowd-pleaser: two enormous veal fillets stuffed with Serrano ham and Asturian cheese, breaded and fried to a shattering golden crust. One portion is generously sized for two people and arrives with roasted peppers and hand-cut chips.
Cider culture 101
In Asturias, cider is poured escanciado-style — the bottle held high above the head, the glass low at hip height — to aerate the flat, tart natural cider and give it a brief, foamy head. At El Molín, the staff perform this ritual with practised nonchalance; ask to try it yourself and they'll happily coach you.
The restaurant sources its cider from small local llagares (cider mills) in the Nava and Villaviciosa valleys, and the menu changes seasonally to reflect what the Asturian countryside is producing. Reserve a table on the terrace in summer — it overhangs the river and the view is half the meal.
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