Market · Cambodia

Phsar Chas (Old Market), Siem Reap

Phsar Chas — literally 'Old Market' — is Siem Reap's most atmospheric trading hub, a covered iron-roofed hall dating to the French colonial era where locals shop for fresh produce alongside travellers hunting silk scarves, hand-painted lacquerware and bags of Kampot pepper. It smells of lemongrass, dried fish and frangipani, and it is gloriously, authentically chaotic.

Navigating the Stalls

The market divides naturally into zones: the inner ring is wet market territory — butchers, fishmongers and towers of tropical fruit — while the outer aisles transition into handicrafts, clothing and souvenir stalls. Locals do their grocery shopping from around 6 a.m.; by 9 a.m. the tourist-facing stalls are fully open.

Look for vendors selling prahok (fermented fish paste), palm sugar cakes wrapped in banana leaf, and fresh-cut green mango with chilli salt — all staples of the Khmer kitchen that you won't find packaged in any airport shop.

What to Buy

Genuine Cambodian silk from Siem Reap's weaving villages is sold in bolts or as finished scarves — look for the slightly uneven texture of hand-loomed fabric versus mass-produced alternatives. Kampot pepper (a geographically protected Cambodian product) in small sealed bags makes a lightweight, high-value gift.

Bargaining is expected on handicrafts but not on food. Start at roughly 50–60% of the opening price and settle somewhere in the middle — aggressive haggling over small amounts is considered rude rather than savvy.

Eating Your Way Through

The cluster of noodle stalls on the market's south-east corner serve kuy teav (rice noodle soup with pork or beef) from dawn for under $2 a bowl — this is where Siem Reap residents eat breakfast, not tourists. Point at what you want and add condiments from the table: fish sauce, chilli vinegar and sugar.

In the evening the surrounding streets transform into an outdoor food court with grilled corn, fried insects (silkworms and crickets for the adventurous) and fresh sugarcane juice pressed to order.

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