Kbal Spean — River of a Thousand Lingas
Hidden in the forested foothills of the Kulen plateau, Kbal Spean is one of Southeast Asia's most surreal sacred sites: an entire riverbed carved with hundreds of Shiva lingas and Hindu deities, the water flowing over them as a living act of consecration. A jungle hike gets you there — and a waterfall awaits at the end.
The hike and what you'll find
From the trailhead car park, a moderately challenging 1.5 km uphill path winds through dense tropical forest, taking roughly 40 minutes. The canopy keeps it cool even in dry season, and you'll likely spot butterflies and hear gibbons overhead before you reach the first carvings.
At the top, the riverbed opens up to reveal lingas, reclining Vishnus and mythological scenes carved directly into the sandstone rocks just below the water's surface. The Khmer believed the river water blessed by these carvings would fertilise the rice paddies downstream all the way to Angkor.
Practical tips for the trail
Start no later than 8:00 AM — the hike is best done in the morning cool, and the site closes at 5:00 PM. Wear proper walking shoes (the path is uneven and muddy in wet season, June–November) and bring at least one litre of water per person.
Kbal Spean is only 15 minutes by road from Banteay Srei, making them a natural same-day pairing. Do Kbal Spean first while you have energy for the hike, then reward yourself with the temple afterwards.
Kbal Spean — River of a Thousand Lingas on video
More of Banteay Srei
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Banteay Srei →
